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The 2010 Polaris Ranger 800 transmission and rear diff oil run in what Polaris refers to as the main gearcase on the Rangers and oil capacity is relatively small at 34 oz. or 1.1 qt. AGL Fluid. This oil change is relatively quick, but is messy and awkward getting to the drain plug and fill plug. Removing the rear passenger side tire would allow better access to the plugs. This article and the free video explains how to change the oil.
Before you get started make sure to have whats needed to complete the job.
- 8mm allen wrench - 1.1 qt Polaris AGL Fluid - oil catch pan -flexible funnel or hose - rags
Before removing the drain plug on your Ranger drive it around for 15 minutes or longer to heat the transmission-rear diff or main gearcase oil. Now remove the oil Drain Plug with a 8 mm allen Wrench and attempt to catch as much oil as possible. This part made a mess on our Ranger 800 skid plate. After draining remove the Fill Plug with the 8mm allen wrench. The tricky part is getting the new oil back into the gearcase. Some have claimed to fill through the vent hose, but we filled through the Fill Plug opening. Our AGL Fluid came with a nozzle that was applied after removing the cap and breaking the seal. After installing the nozzle we cut the tip and placed a foot piece of clear hose on it to feed into the case. Our Polaris Ranger 800 used 1 quart, although specs claimed 1.1 quarts.
To change oil on the Polaris Ranger 800 it requires only a hand full of tools. The process is very easy and it will take more time sourcing the oil filter and oil than actually doing the oil change. I'll describe exactly how to do this...
Before getting started make sure to have the following supplies and tools on hand. - 6mm Allen wrench
- drain pan
- oil filter
- 2 qts oil or 1.9 liters
- oil filter
After warming the engine up remove the 6mm allen head drain plug as shown in the video. In the video we ran into a problem, the oil had lots of moisture in it. After the foamy oil drained out we got scattered and forgot to show the oil filter removal location. If you're does not look contaminated you can now remove the spin on filter located in the front of the engine, accessible on the driver side, in front of the rear tire. Once all the oil has drained reinstall the 6mm drain plug and oil filter. You may want to lube the o-ring on the oil filter prior to install. Once the oil filter is installed, fill the engine with 2 quarts of oil, let it settle, check the dipstick and you're ready to ride! I've included some options below for gathering whats needed for the Ranger 800 oil change.
Recently we installed a SuperATV EZ Steer Power Steering Kit on a 2014 Commander 800R. From the factory the Commander SxS without power steering turns fairly easily for most adults. It's comparable to the Polaris Ranger, Polaris Rzr, John Deere Gator, Honda Pioneer or Kawasaki Tyrex without power steering.
We used the Commander primarily doing chores and checking things around the farm at slow speeds. The Commander had several drivers in one days time and my daughter and wife sometimes complained about the effort it took to steer. That's when a decision was made to give the EZ Steer Power Steering Kit a try.
After ordering the power steering kit by SuperATV it arrived lightning fast. Installation of the kit was fairly effortless with the directions included and wasn't nearly as hard to install as I had envisioned. The entire installation process took about two hours and the most difficult installation part was just having to get down low to access the parts under the steering column where it bolts up. A nice feature about the SuperATV EZ Steer Kit is everything truly bolts up or plugs in, no cutting wires or modify existing brackets.
First ride with the kit installed was amazing. The steering effort was easy, smooth and precise just as SuperATV advertised. The power steering kit is whisper quiet and if it wasn't so easy to steer you wouldn't know it's there. The best part about the EZ Steer is how easy it made the Commander for the rest of the family to drive. It really adds a measure of safety to those who operate it that are not as physically strong to steer the UTV at slow speeds. In conclusion, our experience with the SuperATV EZ Steer Power Steering Kit has been great and we recommend it as an alternative upgrade from factory power steering. Since our purchase of the product it's price has went up a bit less that $100, must be a popular upgrade... Watch Review Below.
On one of our recent fix it videos we performed a belt change on a Kawasaki Brute Force. Having no repair manual and being a novice to the belt change on the Kawasaki's we ran into a problem when trying to remove the primary clutch. Some folks claimed that the older belts could be rolled off the secondary clutch. We tried this method and possibly could have removed it, but then we would still have to install the new belt and take a chance on damaging it or warping something else. After some research we found a primary clutch puller on Amazon sold by MTC (part#: 57001-1429) for less than $22 shipped. The puller had some good reviews, but you know the old saying, "You get what you pay for". So I then looked into making my own puller, but couldn't come close to this price in purchasing the all thread alone. When the puller arrived I threaded it into the primary clutch on the Brute Force. A couple turns of the puller and the primary clutch popped right off. With the primary clutch removed it could be positioned closer to the secondary clutch and the belt slid right off. The primary clutch puller worked as advertised and there were no signs of damage to the tool. When something works and it's a good value it gets passed onto our readers. This video explains how to change the belt on a Brute Force with this tool. MTC claims the puller works on the following Kawasaki models:
KFX700 KSF700
V-FORCE
KVF750i BRUTE FORCE
4X4i
KVF700
PRAIRIE 4X4
KVF650 BRUTE
FORCE 4X4
KVF650 PRAIRIE
KVF400 PRAIRIE 4X4 and 2X4
KVF360 PRAIRIE 4X4 and 2X4
KVF300 PRAIRIE 4X4 and 2X4
KAF620 MULE 4X4 and 2X4
MULE 3010 4X4
MULE 3000
Recently a quick easy rear axle change on a Polaris Ranger 800 Crew turned into a couple hour job. Both rear axles had torn boots and one had completely came apart as seen in the video. Replacing the rear axle is a very basic repair that most can accomplish at home with basic tools.
Before getting started you will need these tools: -impact wrench -27mm socket -14mm socket -15mm wrench -15mm socket
If axle stuck: -screw drivers or -pry tools
If your rear axle isn't seized into the rear end housing this install will take under a hour, even if it's your first time. Begin by removing rear tire/wheel and next the 27mm axle nut. Now remove the brake caliber secured by two 14 mm bolts on the inner side. Once caliber has been pulled completely remove the top 15mm bolt on the knuckle. Next loosen the bottom 15mm bolt on the knuckle, but do not completely remove. Now you can maneuver the knuckle down and the axle end will slide out. To remove the axle push in and forcefully pull outward. The axle is held in by a small clip that will compress and release with enough pull force. Both the rear axles I replaced were stuck, rusted onto the splines form years of swimming in mud and water. It takes time, but removing a stuck axle can be accomplished with some flat head screw drivers and pry bar. Nothing complicated about this process, but time consuming if stuck. The below links are for the Sixty axles we've had good luck out of.
Or the less expensive XT Series...
The Honda Rancher 350 is undoubtedly one of the best selling atv's of all time. Recently we had one of these legends in our stable and tested it off-road. For those folks out there in the market for a used and capable quad that gets the job done this review will give you some information to help make a decision. This model is a 2004, ES (electric shift) version with full-time 4x4 and keep in mind the 2004-2006 350 Rancher is virtually the same.
The Rancher ES 350 is a more feature oriented quad than the base model 350 Rancher with foot shift. To compare the differences between the two click this text. The Rancher comes standard equipped with a single cylinder 329cc engine (advertised as a 350cc), 32mm carburation, 5 speed transmission with reverse and full-time 4x4 (means it stays in 4wd) and weighs in at 520 pounds. The cosmetics and rack system appearance changed in 2004, but it uses the same running gear introduced in 2000.
Off-road the Rancher 350 is a no frills ATV, but is balanced and predictable. With the factory Dirt Hook ATV tires the Rancher 350 is able to traverse moderate terrain, but a good radial atv tire would improve ride quality and traction. It steers fairly easily for a full time 4x4 quad, mostly credited to a open front differential. The Rancher has drum brakes all the way around and they provide good stopping power when everything is working correctly. The Rancher 350 offers a wide range of usable power with plenty of low end torque and good top end that holds its rpm good in first, second and third gears no matter the resistance the terrain provides. More extreme off-road terrain will require some momentum to make it to the top, just make sure you have ample room to build that momentum.
Over-all this is a solid, balanced, tough and reliable atv. These can be purchased used in the $2500 to $3500 price range, depending on condition. When buying in the lower price range expect areas that may need attention: front-rear brakes replaced, seized rear brake pedal lubed, pull starter cleaned, valve adjustment, carburetor rebuild and a battery. The Rancher 350 4x4 is a great value and will last for many years properly maintained.
The Can-Am Commander 800R (799cc) and the Polaris Rzr 800 (760cc) both have stout twin cylinder power plants. The Polaris Rzr 800 uses a longitudinally in-line engine setup and the Commander 800R uses a v-twin design. Valves per cylinder is also different with the Rzr breathing through two valves per cylinder and the Commander having four valves per cylinder.
These 800's get off the starting line quickly for their dry weights, the Rzr S 800 weights in at 1022 pounds and the Commander 800R at 1287 pounds. This 265 pound weight difference should be a noticeable disadvantage in performance for the Commander, but the 800R v-twin engine compensates. In multiple drag races, with different drivers, the Commander 800R edged the Rzr S 800 every time. Unique to the Commander, the driver has the ability to choose between ECO MODE and PERFORMANCE MODE with a flip of the dash mounted toggle switch. Our test driver did notice a difference in engine power between the modes. The Polaris Rzr S did hook up better in our drag races due to the factory Maxxis Big Horn tires putting the power to the ground versus the Commander's Carlisle Black Rock. Though the Commander 800 proved to be slightly quicker in hole shot drags, the margin was only by a couple feet. Those that race the Commander remove the cargo bed to blast quicker acceleration during the hole shot and replace the factory Black Rock tires with something that will hook up better.
Unique to each respected engine is their rumble. Most folks who are into the UTV scene can identify each of these just by the exhaust tone. The Polaris Rzr 800 has a quick throaty bumble bee exhaust sound with a engine stroke of 2.99 inches. The Commander 800R sounds like a cross between a stock car and a Harley Davidson with a shorter stroke of 2.42 inches. Each sounds good, but I'll have to give the nod to the Can-Am's exhaust note. When you start the 800R you feel like your belted into a modified baja truck! Watch shootout video review.
Couple months ago we had a Rzr S 800 and Commander 800R in our stable. For those out there trying to decide between which used Side by Side to buy, this should help. Both the Rzr and the Commander offer unique features and plenty of engine for beginners and experienced drivers. The RZR S is a step up from the base model and the Commander 800R is the base model for Can-Am. In this entry we'll cover the differences in interiors and suspensions and link to other comparisons between the two at the bottom of this review.
At first look both the Commander and the Rzr have aggressive styling. It's apparent that the Rzr has a lower center of gravity, seats positioned closer to the ground and uses a open interior as the engine is positioned behind the cab. The Commander uses a closed cockpit seating design with the engine positioned in the center between the occupants. The Commanders seats get the nod in seat comfort as they use a memory foam type cushion and the cockpit style cab providing a feeling of security. A unique feature to the Commander is that both seats can be easily removed and used as chairs around the campfire.
The suspension on both machines work well, although the Rzr S 800 offers a smoother ride. That being said the Commander is a true sport-utility UTV, has a functional dual compartment dump bed rated to carry 600 pounds versus the Rzr 300 pound capacity. The rear suspension is noticeably stiffer on the Commander, probably for the purpose of hauling loads and offers 10 inches of travel front and rear. The rear suspension on the Rzr 800 S is a a-arm setup with Fox Racing shocks offering 12 inches of travel front and rear, as opposed to the Commander's dual rear trailing arm setup. Don't expect to haul much in the small rear cargo bed area on the Rzr 800, but if you're primary use for the UTV is trail riding the Rzr S 800 will deliver a smoother more comfortable ride and it's lower center of gravity will come in handy on those side hills. Watch our video review here