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Changing the front diff fluid on the Ranger 800 is a quick and easy job. The most difficult part is of the entire job is removing the fill plug on the front of the diff. The oil change is relatively mess free due to the low 9.3 oz. fluid capacity. Before getting started make sure to have a 8mm allen wrench and Polaris Demand Drive Hub Fluid or Polaris Angle Drive Fluid on hand. Lots of discussion out there on using different brands such as Amsoil and fluid variations such as automatic transmission fluid and hydraulic fluid in the front differential gearcase on these Rangers. You can do you're own research on that, but many swear by these alternatives. Begin the process by driving the Ranger at road speeds for 15 minutes or more to warm the fluid up making the drain process quicker and more complete. Next remove the 8mm drain plug with the allen wrench, there is a hole in the front skid plate for access. As the fluid drains remove the fill plug located on front of the differential, you can do this without removing plastics. Once fluid is drained reinstall the drain plug. To fill you can attach a hose to the top of the Polaris Demand Drive Hub Fluid or Angle Drive Fluid nozzle and plumb it into the fill hole or use a funnel with hose, just be creative. Others have filled the front diff by pouring fluid down the vent hose under the hood. I've attached the video of our fluid change, but to be honest it was early on and not the best.
The 2010 Polaris Ranger 800 transmission and rear diff oil run in what Polaris refers to as the main gearcase on the Rangers and oil capacity is relatively small at 34 oz. or 1.1 qt. AGL Fluid. This oil change is relatively quick, but is messy and awkward getting to the drain plug and fill plug. Removing the rear passenger side tire would allow better access to the plugs. This article and the free video explains how to change the oil.
Before you get started make sure to have whats needed to complete the job.
- 8mm allen wrench - 1.1 qt Polaris AGL Fluid - oil catch pan -flexible funnel or hose - rags
Before removing the drain plug on your Ranger drive it around for 15 minutes or longer to heat the transmission-rear diff or main gearcase oil. Now remove the oil Drain Plug with a 8 mm allen Wrench and attempt to catch as much oil as possible. This part made a mess on our Ranger 800 skid plate. After draining remove the Fill Plug with the 8mm allen wrench. The tricky part is getting the new oil back into the gearcase. Some have claimed to fill through the vent hose, but we filled through the Fill Plug opening. Our AGL Fluid came with a nozzle that was applied after removing the cap and breaking the seal. After installing the nozzle we cut the tip and placed a foot piece of clear hose on it to feed into the case. Our Polaris Ranger 800 used 1 quart, although specs claimed 1.1 quarts.
Recently a quick easy rear axle change on a Polaris Ranger 800 Crew turned into a couple hour job. Both rear axles had torn boots and one had completely came apart as seen in the video. Replacing the rear axle is a very basic repair that most can accomplish at home with basic tools.
Before getting started you will need these tools: -impact wrench -27mm socket -14mm socket -15mm wrench -15mm socket
If axle stuck: -screw drivers or -pry tools
If your rear axle isn't seized into the rear end housing this install will take under a hour, even if it's your first time. Begin by removing rear tire/wheel and next the 27mm axle nut. Now remove the brake caliber secured by two 14 mm bolts on the inner side. Once caliber has been pulled completely remove the top 15mm bolt on the knuckle. Next loosen the bottom 15mm bolt on the knuckle, but do not completely remove. Now you can maneuver the knuckle down and the axle end will slide out. To remove the axle push in and forcefully pull outward. The axle is held in by a small clip that will compress and release with enough pull force. Both the rear axles I replaced were stuck, rusted onto the splines form years of swimming in mud and water. It takes time, but removing a stuck axle can be accomplished with some flat head screw drivers and pry bar. Nothing complicated about this process, but time consuming if stuck. The below links are for the Sixty axles we've had good luck out of.
Or the less expensive XT Series...
Changing the front diff fluid on the Ranger 800 is a quick and easy job. The most difficult part is of the entire job is removing the fill plug on the front of the diff. The oil change is relatively mess free due to the low 9.3 oz. fluid capacity. Before getting started make sure to have a 8mm allen wrench and Polaris Demand Drive Hub Fluid or Polaris Angle Drive Fluid on hand. Lots of discussion out there on using different brands such as Amsoil and fluid variations such as automatic transmission fluid and hydraulic fluid in the front differential gearcase on these Rangers. You can do you're own research on that, but many swear by these alternatives.
Begin the process by driving the Ranger at road speeds for 15 minutes or more to warm the fluid up making the drain process quicker and more complete. Next remove the 8mm drain plug with the allen wrench, there is a hole in the front skid plate for access. As the fluid drains remove the fill plug located on front of the differential, you can do this without removing plastics. Once fluid is drained reinstall the drain plug. To fill you can attach a hose to the top of the Polaris Demand Drive Hub Fluid or Angle Drive Fluid nozzle and plumb it into the fill hole or use a funnel with hose, just be creative. Others have filled the front diff by pouring fluid down the vent hose under the hood. I've attached the video of our fluid change, but to be honest it was early on and not the best.
