How to remove the the carburetors:Kawasaki Brute Force 650 or Prairie 650

This post explains how to remove the carburetor on the Kawasaki Brute Force 650, including what plastics need to be removed.  I'll start by explaining just why I'm removing the carbs for cleaning.  The Brute has a slight miss or cough when at 1/8 throttle.  Other than that it starts as normal with choke and once warmed up pulls hard through the engines entire power range, but still has the hesitation or miss at 1/8 throttle.  The video I've made with this article shows exactly what plastic needs to be removed and the entire removal of the carb, step by step.  Don't be overwhelmed by the thoughts of messing something up, it's really a very straight forward process, but you will need to take your time.  Once all plastic, including the air box is removed you will need to remove several hoses: fuel line, 2 coolant hoses, 2 float bowl drain hoses.  Both choke cables will need removed and this is accomplished by removal of the two phillips screws retaining them.  They will now pull out from the carburetor.  Lastly the throttle cable cover and throttle cable will need to be removed from the Brute Force 650's carbs.  You will now be able to vise the assembly, but be sure to dump the fuel left in the float bowls first.  Now you can remove the float bowls, each retained by four phillips screws.  Once they have been pulled you'll have access to the main and pilot jet of each carburetor.  If your Brute Force is hard to start, won't idle, only runs well with choke on or dies when throttle is applied the problem is likely the pilot jet being clogged.  That being said its a must to go ahead and clean everything now, including all the passages in the carburetor itself with a good quality can of carb cleaner.  In my case this cleaning did not correct my low throttle miss and I will soon be posting a  new article on how to remove the caps covering the air-fuel mixture screws to enrich the fuel mixture.