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Recently we were changing the front differential fluid on a 2012 Polaris Sportsman 800. Some folks suggested using Angle Drive Fluid and that it replaced Demand Drive Fluid. The Owner's Manual makes no mention of this fluid, so after much research and looking at the fluids, it's apparent that these two oils are different in every way. Watch the Comparison.
Polaris Angle Drive Fluid is made for the earlier model Polaris 4x4 ATV's that have the electrically actuated hub assembly. This means the AWD system engages at the hub assembly or similar to a old pick-up truck that you have to get out of and lock the 4wd system in at the center of the front wheels. The front diff on these style quads use the Angle Drive Fluid, which appears to be the same consistency and very similar to a gear oil.
Polaris Demand Drive Fluid is formulated for (approximately) 2004 and newer Sportsman's that the AWD (4x4) system engages in the front differential. This fluid is much thinner and resembles hydraulic fluid. The Demand Drive Fluid is clear and very thin as you can see in the video. Some folks have ran Angle Drive Fluid in the newer center actuating front differentials with no issues, while others report the fluid made their front gearcase make a loud popping noise and ultimately break down.
Changing the front diff fluid on the Ranger 800 is a quick and easy job. The most difficult part is of the entire job is removing the fill plug on the front of the diff. The oil change is relatively mess free due to the low 9.3 oz. fluid capacity. Before getting started make sure to have a 8mm allen wrench and Polaris Demand Drive Hub Fluid or Polaris Angle Drive Fluid on hand. Lots of discussion out there on using different brands such as Amsoil and fluid variations such as automatic transmission fluid and hydraulic fluid in the front differential gearcase on these Rangers. You can do you're own research on that, but many swear by these alternatives. Begin the process by driving the Ranger at road speeds for 15 minutes or more to warm the fluid up making the drain process quicker and more complete. Next remove the 8mm drain plug with the allen wrench, there is a hole in the front skid plate for access. As the fluid drains remove the fill plug located on front of the differential, you can do this without removing plastics. Once fluid is drained reinstall the drain plug. To fill you can attach a hose to the top of the Polaris Demand Drive Hub Fluid or Angle Drive Fluid nozzle and plumb it into the fill hole or use a funnel with hose, just be creative. Others have filled the front diff by pouring fluid down the vent hose under the hood. I've attached the video of our fluid change, but to be honest it was early on and not the best.
The 2010 Polaris Ranger 800 transmission and rear diff oil run in what Polaris refers to as the main gearcase on the Rangers and oil capacity is relatively small at 34 oz. or 1.1 qt. AGL Fluid. This oil change is relatively quick, but is messy and awkward getting to the drain plug and fill plug. Removing the rear passenger side tire would allow better access to the plugs. This article and the free video explains how to change the oil.
Before you get started make sure to have whats needed to complete the job.
- 8mm allen wrench - 1.1 qt Polaris AGL Fluid - oil catch pan -flexible funnel or hose - rags
Before removing the drain plug on your Ranger drive it around for 15 minutes or longer to heat the transmission-rear diff or main gearcase oil. Now remove the oil Drain Plug with a 8 mm allen Wrench and attempt to catch as much oil as possible. This part made a mess on our Ranger 800 skid plate. After draining remove the Fill Plug with the 8mm allen wrench. The tricky part is getting the new oil back into the gearcase. Some have claimed to fill through the vent hose, but we filled through the Fill Plug opening. Our AGL Fluid came with a nozzle that was applied after removing the cap and breaking the seal. After installing the nozzle we cut the tip and placed a foot piece of clear hose on it to feed into the case. Our Polaris Ranger 800 used 1 quart, although specs claimed 1.1 quarts.
Recently a quick easy rear axle change on a Polaris Ranger 800 Crew turned into a couple hour job. Both rear axles had torn boots and one had completely came apart as seen in the video. Replacing the rear axle is a very basic repair that most can accomplish at home with basic tools.
Before getting started you will need these tools: -impact wrench -27mm socket -14mm socket -15mm wrench -15mm socket
If axle stuck: -screw drivers or -pry tools
If your rear axle isn't seized into the rear end housing this install will take under a hour, even if it's your first time. Begin by removing rear tire/wheel and next the 27mm axle nut. Now remove the brake caliber secured by two 14 mm bolts on the inner side. Once caliber has been pulled completely remove the top 15mm bolt on the knuckle. Next loosen the bottom 15mm bolt on the knuckle, but do not completely remove. Now you can maneuver the knuckle down and the axle end will slide out. To remove the axle push in and forcefully pull outward. The axle is held in by a small clip that will compress and release with enough pull force. Both the rear axles I replaced were stuck, rusted onto the splines form years of swimming in mud and water. It takes time, but removing a stuck axle can be accomplished with some flat head screw drivers and pry bar. Nothing complicated about this process, but time consuming if stuck. The below links are for the Sixty axles we've had good luck out of.
Or the less expensive XT Series...
The Can-Am Commander 800R (799cc) and the Polaris Rzr 800 (760cc) both have stout twin cylinder power plants. The Polaris Rzr 800 uses a longitudinally in-line engine setup and the Commander 800R uses a v-twin design. Valves per cylinder is also different with the Rzr breathing through two valves per cylinder and the Commander having four valves per cylinder.
These 800's get off the starting line quickly for their dry weights, the Rzr S 800 weights in at 1022 pounds and the Commander 800R at 1287 pounds. This 265 pound weight difference should be a noticeable disadvantage in performance for the Commander, but the 800R v-twin engine compensates. In multiple drag races, with different drivers, the Commander 800R edged the Rzr S 800 every time. Unique to the Commander, the driver has the ability to choose between ECO MODE and PERFORMANCE MODE with a flip of the dash mounted toggle switch. Our test driver did notice a difference in engine power between the modes. The Polaris Rzr S did hook up better in our drag races due to the factory Maxxis Big Horn tires putting the power to the ground versus the Commander's Carlisle Black Rock. Though the Commander 800 proved to be slightly quicker in hole shot drags, the margin was only by a couple feet. Those that race the Commander remove the cargo bed to blast quicker acceleration during the hole shot and replace the factory Black Rock tires with something that will hook up better.
Unique to each respected engine is their rumble. Most folks who are into the UTV scene can identify each of these just by the exhaust tone. The Polaris Rzr 800 has a quick throaty bumble bee exhaust sound with a engine stroke of 2.99 inches. The Commander 800R sounds like a cross between a stock car and a Harley Davidson with a shorter stroke of 2.42 inches. Each sounds good, but I'll have to give the nod to the Can-Am's exhaust note. When you start the 800R you feel like your belted into a modified baja truck! Watch shootout video review.
Recently we were changing the front differential fluid on a 2012 Polaris Sportsman 800. Some folks suggested using Angle Drive Fluid and that it replaced Demand Drive Fluid. The Owner's Manual makes no mention of this fluid, so after much research and looking at the fluids, it's apparent that these two oils are different in every way. Watch the Comparison.
