How to Lower the Roll Cage on Rzr 800

I've heard lots of folks talk about chopping the roll cage on a Rzr 800 for better looks and strength.  Having a Rzr 800 for testing recently we decided to give the roll cage chop a try ourselves.  After doing some research into the modification I grabbed a tape measure, saw-saw and made the first two cuts!  After the first two cuts were made we were at the point of no return and we pushed forward.  The video overview of the cage chop can be watched below or on our website.

If you're considering this modification remember that a factory roof will still fit the cage afterward.  We completed this chop with rather basic garage tools and the list of tools and materials is listed.

TOOLS & MATERIAL NEEDED:

• tape measure
• masking tape to mark cuts
• saw-saw with good metal cutting blade
• grinder
• ratchet straps
• 8mm allen wrench to loosen roll cage
• mig welder (stick welder could be used)
• 41 inches of 1 3/4 tubing
• two inserts made of 1 1/2 O.D. tubing approx 2.5 inches each.

1. Begin the cage chop by removing the seats and liberally loosening all eight 8mm allen head cage bolts.

2. Next decide how much you want to lower the Rzr 800 cage.  We removed 5 1/2 inches from the rear of the cage and that provided enough head room for a 6'2" person with helmet to sit in the cab comfortably.

3. Mark the first cut with tape as pictured below (measure from the lower horizontal side support at approx. 5 1/2 inches up)

4. Next mark the upper cut by measuring from the initial mark.

5. After removing the two pieces of tubing (5 1/2 inches in our project) it's time to modify the upper horizontal support cage bar. Either cut it in the middle or completely remove it by grinding off the welds.  It will eventually need to be completely removed by grinding off the welds on the tubing and support brackets, but can be done after the cage is pulled down and back together.

6. Next weld the inserts into the lower section of the cage or where the initial cut was made.

7. Now it's time to spread the upper rear part of the cage to fit into the inserts.  We used large ratchet straps secured to pillars on either side of the cage.  We had to really crank on the straps in order to achieve the desired spread.

8. With the straps pulling the cage a part still attached attach another set of ratchet straps to the top of the cage and to the lower horizontal support.  Tightening the straps will bring the cage down and into the desired location.

9. After the Rzr 800 cage is pulled back together and set into the inserts weld it up.

10. To complete the project the upper horizontal cage support and brackets will have to be completely removed and the existing cage ground smooth.  It is possible to remove the support brackets from the existing cage and upper horizontal for reuse.  To rebuild the upper horizontal support you will need approx. 41 inches of 1 3/4 O.D. tubing.  Grind both ends of the upper horizontal support brace to the contour of the existing cage.  Take you're time here and get the best fit possible.  Once fit, weld it into place and reinstall the two cage supports.

50 Inch RZR 800 Test Review by Everything ATV UTV Reviews

Recently we at Everything ATV UTV Reviews had the opportunity to test a 2012 Rzr 800 Limited Edition with the 50 inch chassis.  First let's cover some of the upgrades that come with the Limited Edition or LE.  These include aluminum wheels, tough automotive style painted plastics and best of all, Electronic Power Steering or EPS.  Polaris released at least three different versions of the Rzr 800 in 2012 and include the "S" version highlighted by a wider stance and adjustable gas charged shocks.  The LE version we previously discussed and the base model without electronic power steering.

Firing the Rzr 800 up is as easy as turning the key with it's electronic fuel injection system.  Once started choose between Park, Reverse, Neutral, Low or High Range.  We found high range to fit most trail situations unless hill climbing from a dead stop, slow technical riding or towing a load.  When the trail gets rough flip the all wheel drive (AWD) switch and unlike most other manufacturers the Rzr 800 delivers a true four wheel drive with all four tires grabbing traction.  With the electronic power steering we couldn't feel any negative feedback through the steering wheel and found ourselves forgetting to take it out of AWD on more than one occasion.

The 800 twin cylinder engine provided plenty of power for whatever we encountered along the trail.  These engines don't have the best exhaust tone, but make up for it in performance and reliability.  The torque the 800 puts out is handled effectively by the PVT or belt driven Polaris Variable Transmission.  The only area the transmission lacked in was engine braking and tends to break loose and free wheel at lower RPM's.

As always we pushed the 800 Rzr up hills and through tight trails that general only see ATV's.  With the narrower 50 inch stance we had no trouble getting the 800 RZR LE through the trails.  We can say that it would have been near impossible to squeeze the wider S model through some places.  When riding on off chambers we did hit the hills and slopes with a head on line and momentum to keep it on all four tires.

The highlight of the Rzr 800 was defiantly the smooth ride characteristics and electronic power steering.  We had no problems with fatigue from hours on the trail and that makes the Rzr 800 one of the top picks for folks primarily trail riding with this UTV.  If you're in the market for a used Rzr Everything ATV UTV Reviews has one fail safe suggestion and that is get one with power steering, you won't regret it!

   

Polaris General Transmission Fluid Change

Changing the transmission fluid or as Polaris refers to it as the Main Gearcase on the General 1000 is pain free.  The General's design allows for the average UTV owner to maintain the entire running gear with just a hand full of tools.  Before getting started make sure you have the following ready.

• 1.3 quarts of Polaris AGL Fluid
• 8mm allen wrench
• catch pan

Begin by locating the drain plug which can be found where the main and rear skid plate meet.  Remove the drain plug with a 8mm allen wrench.  The drain plug is magnetic so take notice to any debris on it and wipe clean.   As the old AGL Fluid drains locate the fill plug above the reese hitch and below the rear sway bar.  The clearance is tight accessing the transmission fill plug on the General, but is doable.  Once the fill plug is broke loose you can remove it entirely with your fingers.  To fill we used a clear tube attached to the nozzle as seen in the below video.  Once 1.3 ounces of AGL Fluid is installed, or it crests the fill plug hole, reinstall the fill plug.

Polaris Sportsman 800 BELT CHANGE

The Sportsman 800 throws power to the ground through a CVT Belt setup.  Replacing the belt on the Sportsman is part of routine maintenance and belts do wear out over time.  If your belt is squealing or you notice a loss in performance it's probably time for a belt change.   Recently we had the opportunity take a look at the CVT or PVT (Polaris Variable Transmission) setup and change the belt on a 2012 Sportsman 800.  In this article we'll explain how to change the belt, but first here is what tools you'll need.    WATCH HOW TO VIDEO

1. To remove foot well: T25 Torx Bit, 10mm wrench
2. To remove belt cover: 10mm socket, extension, ratchet
3. To remove belt: 16mm socket, impact wrench, primary clutch puller

Begin by removing the foot well, secured by four T25 Torx screws and four plastic rivets.  You may have to pull upward slightly on the front and rear fender to completely release it.  Next you'll need to remove two plastic rivets located under the seat (see picture or watch video).  Removing these two plastic rivets will allow you to pull the plastic up and access the two clamps securing the rubber boot.  After loosening the clamps remove the eight 10mm bolts securing the PVT belt cover.  Next work the cover off by pulling outward and wiggling it at the same time.  Now that the cover is off you can see the PVT setup consisting of the primary clutch, secondary clutch and belt.  The primary clutch will need to be removed to gain enough slack to remove the belt.  There are other methods for removing the belt, but we have found this one to work best for us.  Next remove the 16mm bolt securing the primary clutch, it is standard threads, so counter clockwise removes it.  Next screw the primary clutch puller into the center of the primary clutch and tighten with a impact wrench.  It should pop off rather easily using this method.  Now that the primary clutch has been pulled remove the belt and take notice of the orientation.  Next reinstall the new belt and primary clutch.  Once the 16mm bolt has been reinstalled and tightened check the PVT belt cover seal.  The PVT cover seal needs to be removed and cleaned if dirty to ensure a water tight seal.  Once completed everything can be reassembled!